Saturday, October 22, 2011

12 Gifts of Christmas Blog Hop

If you've been following the 12 Gifts of Christmas Blog Hop, the brainchild of Jennifer at Ellison Lane Quilts, I'm sure you've added some adorable gifts to your Christmas to-sew list!  I've seen some very cute ideas and I can't wait to make some of the adorable gifts featured.

My tutorial is a ruffled wristlet.  Every girl needs a few ruffles in her life and every girl needs a wristlet.  I'm sure there's someone on your list who could use one.  If not, I think you could use one, but we are talking about gifts here, so make one for someone else first and then you'll have no guilt about making one for yourself.  Throughout this tutorial, the photo always follows the instructions for that step.  Here we go, it's the...

This wristlet can be made with one fat quarter (FQ).  Advantage, it's ONE fat quarter.  Disadvantage, the entire wristlet is made from the same fabric.  Use the cutting layout below if you want to cut the entire thing from one FQ.  To make it from different fabrics, use the measurements on the layout to cut your pieces.  Or, you could make two or three with two or three FQs and mix the fabrics up.

 Here's what you'll need for this project.
  • One fat quarter
  • One 8 x 6" rectangle and one 8 x 6.5" rectangle of midweight fusible interfacing
  • One 7" zipper
  • Thread to match your exterior fabric
  • Optional: Two 8 x 6" rectangles for a contrasting lining if you don't cut the lining pieces from the FQ.

Step 1: Interfacing. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior pieces. (There's no photo for this step.)

Step 2: "Hem" the ruffles.  There are, of course, a variety of ways you can finish the edges of your ruffles, but to keep this simple, we're going to zigzag about 1/4" inside the edge and unravel the fabric a bit.  I use my seam ripper to pick the warp threads one at a time and pull them out.  I used a zigzag stitch 2.5mm long by 3.5mm wide and unraveled my edge back to the edge of the zigzag.

Step 3:  Gather the ruffles.  Sew a basting stitch (the longest stitch on your machine) along the top edge of each ruffle. Then sew another row of basting stitches about 1/4" below the first row. Be sure to leave at leave at least 2-3" of thread tails on both ends of your ruffle. I used white thread so you can see my basting stitches. To gather your ruffles, pull on both bobbin stitches on one end at once and gently gather the fabric. I like to push a few small gathers all the way to the center and build the gathers out toward the edge. Do the same on the opposite end until your fabric is gathered to about 8" wide. Gather both ruffles.

Step 4: Attach the bottom ruffle.  Measure 3.5" up from the bottom edge of your larger (6.5" x 8") exterior fabric and mark a line along the 8" length. I used a hera marker, but a pencil would work just fine.
Align the top edge of the smaller (3") ruffle to the line you marked.  There will be 1/2" below the ruffle.  Distribute the fullness evenly and pin the ruffle to the fabric.
Stitch the ruffle to the fabric with a straight stitch 1/8" from the raw edge. At this point, I remove the basting stitches. If you basted with the same color thread and they aren't loose and their appearance doesn't bother you (they will be hidden under the top ruffle), feel free to leave them in place.

After removing the basting stitches, sew a wide zigzag stitch about 1/16" down from the raw edge.  It helps contain the yarns along the raw edge and keeps the top edge of the ruffle flat.  I used a zigzag stitch 2.0mm long and 5.0mm wide.

Step 5: Attach the top ruffle.  Trim 1.5" from the top edge of the exterior front.     

Align the ruffle to the top edge and pin in place distributing the fullness evenly.  Stitch this ruffle to the bag front using straight stitch and a 1/8" seam allowance (or a VERY scant 1/4" seam allowance).
Place the 1.5" strip you cut from the top edge of the bag front right side down on top of the ruffle and align the top edges.  Attach this strip to the bag front with a 1/4" seam allowance.

Fold the strip up and press it away from the ruffle.  If you have any stitches, basting or otherwise, showing along the top edge of the ruffle below the strip, remove those carefully with a seam ripper.

Step 6: Cover the ends of your zipper. Fold each small 1.5 x 3" rectangle in half to form two 1.5" squares.  Press each square and align it (folded edge to the inside) over the ends of the zipper covering the metal zipper stop on each end by 1/8 to 1/4".  Stitch over the end of the zipper in that small space as shown on the right below.  Take care to avoid the metal zipper stop; your machine needle probably won't win against it.  Stitch both ends and flip it over to check out how fancy your zipper looks now.  Trim the fabric on the ends and sides so that it's the same size as the zipper.

Step 7: Zipper Time!  Center the zipper right sides together on the top edge of the bag front.  It will be slightly longer than the fabric.

Use a zipper foot to stitch the zipper to the bag.  Start on the end opposite the zipper pull with the zipper closed.  Sew to about 2" from the zipper pull, lower the needle, and raise the presser foot.  Reach under the zipper and push the zipper pull backward past the presser foot.  Lower the presser foot, ensure that the fabric edges are still aligned and finish the seam. I totally forgot to take a photo of this step, so I faked it in the photo below, but I had already sewn the seam.  You only need to stitch it once; don't let the photo confuse you. 
Close the zipper and place one lining piece right sides together on top of the zipper and bag front, aligning the top edge and sides.

Pin and stitch the lining to the zipper using the zipper foot. You won't be able to see the zipper, but your zipper foot will be able to find and follow the edge of it through the lining.  Move the zipper pull to the back in the same manner as before to ensure your seam is straight.

Open out the lining fabric and press it away from the zipper. Understitch the zipper to the lining to prevent the lining from being caught in the zipper teeth.  Stitching will only go through the lining and the zipper, not the front of the bag.  Be sure to pull the fabric gently away from the zipper as you stitch.
Repeat Step 7 to attach the other side of the bag and lining to opposite side of the zipper.  Don't forget to understitch the lining and press all of the seams when finished sewing.

Step 8: Wrist Strap:  Fold the wrist strap in half lenghtwise and press.  Unfold it and fold each outside edge in to the center fold and press again.  The raw edges are hidden and the strap is four layers thick.  Sew close to the edge along the length of both sides.
Secure the wrist strap to the edge of the exterior back (only the back, not the lining) on the side where the zipper closes, about 1" down from the top edge.  I used some zigzag stitches which will be hidden inside the seam allowance.

 Step 9: Sew this thing together!  Okay, this part is very, very important...

U N Z I P   T H E   Z I P P E R   H A L F   W A Y!

I don't know if you've ever tried to unzip a zipper from the back side, but it's so hard to do, I don't even know if it's possible. So, please, please don't forget to unzip your zipper half way or about four inches. 

Fold the bag so that the right sides of the exterior and lining are together.  The seam allowances at the center (the zipper) will fold toward the lining.

Pin the bag together on all four sides, matching your edges and corners.  If the bag is a little crooked at this point, take a moment to square it up.  Make sure that the sides of the ruffles extend out past the edge of the bag to ensure they are caught in the seam allowance (see mine sticking out on the sides below).  Leave an opening in the center bottom of the lining about 4" long.  My opening is marked by the pink pins.

Stitch all the way around the bag with a scant 1/2" seam allowance.  Make sure that the ruffles are pushed back out of the way of the bottom exterior seam.
Before turning the bag right side out, press the seam allowances at the bottom of the lining (the edge with the opening) back on to the wrong side of the lining. This will make it easier to sew the lining closed.

Clip your corners and trim the bulk off the seam allowances at the zipper ends.  I also trimmed back the ruffles and the end of the wrist strap.

It's the big reveal!  Reach inside the opening in the lining and turn your bag right side out.  Use a point turner (or a chopstick) to push the corners out from the inside on both the lining and the exterior and inside the corners formed at the ends of the zipper.

Step 10: Sew the lining closed by machine or by hand using a slip stitch.  All finished!

So, are you ready for a giveaway?  How does a $25 gift certificate to Fat Quarter Shop sound!  Leave a comment on this post and I'll draw a winner at random on October 27th.
But, it gets better!  Even if you don't win the gift certificate, everyone is a winner at Fabricworm who is offering a 15% discount to readers of the 12 Gifts of Christmas Blog Hop!  Just use the code fw12days at checkout.

But, that's still not all! Visit Jennifer at Ellison Lane Quilts and leave
one comment on her tutorial to be entered to win the
GRAND PRIZE of a $250 gift certificate to Fabricworm!

Friday, October 14- Jennifer @ Ellison Lane Quilts
Saturday, October 15- Ayumi/Pink Penguin
Sunday, October 16- Amy/ Lots of Pink Here
Monday, October 17- Faith/Fresh Lemons Quilts
Tuesday, October 18- Penny/Sew Take a Hike
Wednesday, October 19- Kati/From the Blue Chair
Thursday, October 20- Lee/Freshly Pieced
Friday, October 21- Elizabeth/Don't Call Me Betsy
Saturday, October 22- Melanie/Texas Freckles
Sunday, October 23- Lindsay/Craft Buds
Monday, October 24- Amanda/A Crafty Fox
Tuesday, October 25-Vanessa/Little Big Girl Studio

I'm really grateful that Jennifer asked me to be a part of her blog hop. Be sure to check out all the great tutorials above, and enter their giveaways if you haven't already.

Happy sewing and best of luck on the giveaways!